Our SWL reporter concocts a recipe from the items she picked up.
Biltong is a sort of cured meat reminiscent of jerky that’s marinated in vinegar, dried out instead of being smoked, and usually cut in thick strips. A variety of spices can be used to enhance flavour and Venn St Market’s Limpopo stand was the first to lure me in thanks to its impressive display.
Aside from the traditional cuts were four varieties of thinly sliced beef but it’s all about trying out the Butcher’s Choice. Those bits have the strongest seasoning, with a slightly garlicky edge, enabling them to create tiny savoury explosions of flavour. Don’t get me wrong, the French trader at Une Normande à Londres had some pretty enticing charcuterie himself, but the Biltong really left an impression.
Next up was the fishmonger who was a rather reasonable man willing to bargain and who agreed to put my monkfish on ice until closing time. Later that night it got wrapped in bacon and baked to succulent perfection so even though it was on the expensive side, my stomach’s satisfaction won over the sting in my wallet.
It was a treat to see that quite a few traders had gluten-free products as those in my household who are intolerant to it lament the scarcity of flour-based foods in their lives. So this time death glares were avoided as I could offer them cakes made by Ms Cupcake and pastas from OMGF.
It’s quite a small market sided by many cosy cafes and it feels as though half the stalls were preparing food rather than selling produce. Mind you that’s not a bad thing. The huge hog roast made more than one person salivate and Madame Gautier’s slow-cooked pork and beef are not to be sneered at. Still, it is pretty much a market suited to the middle class as it focuses more on delicatessen than everyday items.
So if you do want to indulge in mushroom pâté, high quality organic fresh Dorset fish and Somerset meat, French jams and cheeses from Bath then make sure to check out Venn St. in Clapham Common on Saturdays between 10am and 4pm.
Let me leave you with a recipe of what I managed to concoct with monkfish, wild garlic, asparagus and a few other essentials I picked up on the day.
Monkfish Wrapped in Bacon with Risotto (serves two)
2 monkfish tail fillets
10-12 rashers of pancetta or bacon
6-8 leaves of wild garlic
200g Arborio or Carnaroli rice
Half an onion, finely chopped
5 asparagus spears, cut off and throw away the wooden parts, cut into rondelle
1 carrot, cut into rondelle
1 tomato, sliced then chopped and salted
1L chicken stock
250ml white wine
50g Parmesan, grated
50g butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/gas 6 and prepare all your ingredients beforehand – timing is important and it’s easier if everything’s on-hand.
Get a relatively large pot, pour in the oil and soften the onions. Make sure they don’t brown as that will affect the taste of it. While keeping an eye on them prepare the fish.
Place your bacon pieces so that one overlaps the other.
Wash your fish, make sure there aren’t any rogue scales, dry it with some kitchen roll and put one filet on top of the bacon.
Set the wild garlic leaves along it and overlay the first piece of fish with the second so that the thin end lies on the large end of the other, before wrapping it all up firmly.
Put it in the oven for 10 minutes then turn it over and put it back in for another 10 minutes or until the bacon gets nicely crispy. Coordinate this with making your risotto:
Once the onions have softened, pour in the rice, turn up the heat and stir so as to coat the rice with oil. Once hot, add the wine – if it makes a sizzling sound you’re doing it right.
Stir until the liquid evaporates then repeat the process one ladleful after the other.
Don’t stop stirring and be sure to stay on high heat.
When you turn over the fish is about the right time to add the carrot and asparagus to your risotto. I suggest adding the tomatoes a minute or two before the end.
Keep stirring – when the rice has softened to your satisfaction add the butter and Parmesan.
Stir as much as possible for about two minutes then cover and let it rest for another two. This will give it the right texture and consistency.
Serve the fish by cutting it into medallions and placing them on top of the risotto.
Bon appétit!
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