It has been a war on numerous fronts.
But in the last decade British cuisine has fought back against the marauding French, Italian, Indian, Turkish, Chinese, American and Thai restaurants that had taken London by storm.
Leading the charge are the Gladwin brothers, whose latest venture in Battersea tops their trio of English restaurants spread across the capital.
The three siblings launched The Shed, Notting Hill, in 2012, then Rabbit, Chelsea, in 2014.
And now The Nutbourne really brings the country to London.
Stylish bare wood and hanging plants overcome a slightly awkward blend of restaurant/bar to give the feel of a cosy summer house in early June.
The journey across the river to Ransomes Dock with its large courtyard and waterside seating feels like a step into Sussex – where the food and wine come from.
Named after the farm where most of the menu is sourced, The Nutbourne replicates the successes of The Shed and Rabbit with exquisite cooking using simple but inventive British ingredients.
One particular example is the mushroom marmite – I’m assured no price hike since Brexit – which sounds odd but is a delicious blend of tarragon, truffle and mushroom that makes a great sharing dip.
Like The Shed, every mouthful intrigues.
The rich flavours and unusual combinations offer a pleasant surprise at each turn with knowledgeable and friendly staff to guide you.
Where The Nutbourne departs from its siblings is the move from smaller bite-sized dishes to more substantial meals.
If The Shed is an experience, The Nutbourne is an occasion.
At around £15 for lamb with vegetables and sides on top of that you are not looking at a regular eat out.
A meal for two with starters, wine and dips could be nearing triple figures.
But the quality of food on offer more than makes up for it.
It is worth the extra expense for dishes like the Sussex beef fillet – perfectly cooked with intense flavours that easily justify the cost.
If you’re looking for a more affordable trip to The Nutbourne the brunches served throughout the week and weekends are a very reasonable excuse.
It promises not to disappoint.
The Gladwins have left the hubs of Notting Hill and The King’s Road for the more rural feel of Battersea Park.
It is a bold move – but if it succeeds it will be another big step for British cuisine’s reclaim of its territory.
